Google Maps: Mohonk Preserve Visitor Center

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The Trapps is the largest and most popular cliff at the Gunks, with many excellent routes at all grades ranging from one to three pitches in height. Almost three miles in length, it is home to many classic climbs of all levels of difficulty, and hosts almost 500 traditional routes AND more than 250 documented boulder problems varying in difficulty from V0 to V14 which scale and traverse the hard quartz conglomerate of the area.

Approach + Trail Surface: A gravel carriage road runs the entire length of the cliff, and provides a relatively flat trail below the cliff to get to your route of choice. The carriage road can be accessed via a moderately inclined gravel road from the West Trapps Parking Lot, or via a stone staircase (aka The Stairmaster) from the Visitor Center Parking Lot. Access trails, marked with yellow paint blazes, are used to get to the cliff from the carriage road. Distances vary up to 0.5miles from the carriage road to specific climbs. Trails up to the cliff can be steep, rocky, and may involve scrambling. There are traditional climbs and boulders directly off the carriage road as well.

Directions: From New Paltz, take Main St. (Rt. 299 West) to the T-junction with Rt. 44/55. Go right, up the hill.

There are two different ways of getting yourself to the carriage road. You can park at the Warwarsing lot, on your right just past the Mohonk Preserve Visitor's Center. Take the East Trapps Connector Trail, consisting of many stone steps and also known as "The Stairmaster", up the hill. This trail meets the carriage road at the Strictly / The Ceiling access trail, which is about a quarter of the way down the cliff.

Or, continue driving up past the hairpin turn, up to the top of the hill, and pass under the steel bridge. The West Trapps parking area just downhill, on the right. From the far end of the parking lot, the West Trapps Connector trail will take you back to the carriage road, and you'll soon find yourself at the cliff, starting with a1. The Uberfall - left.

Google Maps: Mohonk Preserve West Trapps Parking Lot

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Easy access, classic climbs, and easy descents make the Near Trapps a popular area at the Gunks, second only to The Trapps in climber visits. The cliff is 30' to 200' feet high, and hosts almost 200 traditional routes.

Approach + Trail Surface: mild-moderate hilly terrain on narrow trails on dirt/gravel/loose rock/tree roots. Trails can be overgrown and more difficult to navigate than those at the Trapps.

Directions: From New Paltz, take Main St. (Rt. 299 West) to the T-junction with Rt. 44/55. Go right, up the hill. Pass the Mohonk Preserve Visitor's Center and continue past the hairpin turn up to the top of the hill. Park at the West Trapps Lot, and walk up to the steel bridge.

Google Maps: Peterskill at Minnewaska State Park

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A "miniature Gunks", Peterskill has the same type of rock (quartzite conglomerate), the same type of routes (filled with roofs and horizontal cracks), and uses similar gear--but is only one pitch high. It's the perfect place to get used to leading/seconding, top roping, and learning to build gear anchors. Bouldering at Peterskill is also popular. There is an access trail that runs along the entire top of the cliff with several places to descend to a similar access trail that runs along the bottom of the cliff; getting up top to set up a TR anchor is easy.

Approach + Trail Surface: mild-moderate terrain 0.5-1.0 miles. Length and difficulty of approaches vary. Trail surfaces include: packed dirt trails, gravel, scrambling over large boulders terrain.

Directions: Peterskill is located approximately 1.4 miles past the West Trapps Parking Area for the Gunks; continue along 44/55 past the Trapps lot, and you'll see the Minnewaska State Park - Peterskill Climbing Area sign on your right. From the parking lot to the cliffs is no more than a few minutes walk; even at the furthest climbing wall, you're not more than 10 minutes from the parking lot.